HOW I WORK

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I am always sketching ideas in my notebooks and sketchbooks. My ideas come from

looking at other art, especially old masters, both painters and graphic artists, from looking at

nature, reading, and mostly from my own Imagination. Drawing on these things I do

sketches like these here which are the seeds of my paintings. Sometimes I sit down to

deliberately meditate on ideas and draw them, and other times they just occur to me while

I’m doing something else and I quickly jot down a sketch. The sketches below were done in

my sketchbook and were the first steps of some of the paintings you see on my website.

Next I enlarge the rough sketch and add detail as seen below. If necessary I do research to

find reference material. For "The New Guy", seen below, I used both the Web and the

library to find pictures of Mariachi clothing, drums, violins, and day of the dead imagery,

among other things. I also found reference material in my own art book collection.

Sometimes I do one or two or several

color studies. I do these if I'm very

uncertain about the colors and/or the

values in the painting. These studies are

small; 8 x 10 inches at the largest. I can

change colors and values in these in

seconds wheras in a final painting it

could take hours or days to make such

changes. To the right is one of 2 color

studies I did for Return of the Ark. When

I've worked out enough of the

uncertanties in the drawing and color

sketches if i do them, I'm ready to start

work on the final painting. Below are the

steps I took in doing The Moonlighter.

How I Work 2

The Order of Things

In the example above, The

Moonlighter, I painted

everywhere at once, building the

whole painting up gradually.

Sometimes, as in this example,

Salsa Crabs, there are steps to

the painting that have to be done

in a certain order. Here I first

painted the background, which

were comprised of the

gradations of the sky, the water

and the beach.

Next I painted the white lines

which indicated the waves

meeting the beach. Then I

positioned the drawing of my

main subject matter, the crabs,

where I wanted it and taped one

side down. I put the transfer

paper underneath and traced the

drawing down.

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Then I painted the crabs in.

Later I painted some clouds and

trees. The reason for following

these steps and the point of this

example, is that to paint the

gradations of the water and the

beach around the crabs would

have been extremely difficult

and tedious. Painting the crabs

on top of these gradations was

much easier.

Drawing

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The final drawing that I transfer to the

painting surface, such as the one

seen above for The New Guy, is the

most difficult part of the whole

painting process for me. Unlike the

long hours of painting when I often

listen to books on tape or the radio,

this stage of the process requires my

full attention. I make many

adjustments to the placement of the

various elements in the composition.

Sometimes if the perspective is

tricky, it is difficult to draw without

reference. I made the model at right

to help me draw the foreshortening

of the figures for a painting I am

presently working on. I also made a

clay model for the man's head in the

lower left corner of Shooting Star

and the figures in Money Fields.

How I Work 3

The example below shows in detail the steps I took for a more complicated and difficult

painting: After Hours.

1. This painting began with a

pen and ink drawing I did

shortly after graduating from

high school more than 20 years

ago. I rediscovered it in my files

and decided it might make a

good painting.

2. To see if it really would make

a good painting I did this sketch

that included the background. I

decided that the setting for the

skier would be Devil's Castle,

an area at Alta, in Utah, and I

used the sketch to figure out the

composition. First I drew with a

pencil and then went over it with

pen. Before drawing I decided

that I would try having the main

light source coming from the

lower right. This is called

bottom lighting and it adds a

theatrical and dramatic effect.

The original pen and ink

drawing above used the more

typical top lighting. Since I liked

what I saw in the sketch, I

decided to go forward and do

the painting.

3. For reasons mentioned

above I felt it would be

necessary to do this small

(4"x7") color study for this

painting. Originally I painted the

sky with a blue gradation,

similar to Babe in the Woods

(click here to see Babe in the

Woods) but didn't like it so I

changed it to flat black. Most

importantly I determined which

colors to use for the snow. I

wasn't able to visualize the

colors of the snow under these

lighting conditions clearly

without this sketch. Having

chosen these colors I was able

to pre-mix the colors for the

snow in the painting which was

very helpful. I had planned to

have the main light source

come from the lower right and

planned it would be warm -

tones of yellow or orange - and

that there would be a secondary

light source from the moon that

would be cool. This secondary

light source coming from behind

is called "rim lighting" and is

frequently used in

cinematography.

4. Most of my paintings,

including this one, involve a trip

to the library for reference. I

used many editions of Powder

magazine for references of

snow flying up from the skier.

5. Next I photocopied the color

study up to the final size of the

painting: 18" x 24". I

photocopied onto 11" x 17"

sheets which I then taped

together.

6. I also photocopied a photo of

Devil's Castle that I took from

the Sugarloaf chairlift in March

2005. This was a big snow year

so the rocks were covered more

than usual and there were nice

shadows on the snow which I

liked. These were then

transferred down to my painting

surface. I did three sizes so I

could decide later which

worked best.

7. I then enlarged the original

pen and ink drawing with the

photocopier in three slightly

different sizes for comparison.

8. I began mixing the acrylic

paint I would use for the final

painting. I used a palette knife

to mix the paint on the palette

paper (lower left). The palette

paper has a wax-like surface so

the paint doesn't soak into it

and it's easy to mix on. I used

the color study as a reference to

get the color I needed. To

match the colors I held the

palette knife with paint on it

directly over the color study.

Once I had the correct color I

moved it into the sealable

palette (upper right)

Here are the final colors for the

snow in the painting. Other

colors such as the red of the

flowers and browns of the rocks

didn't require pre-mixing and

were put in other palettes. The

sealable palette has an air tight

lid not shown here. I worked

from this palette and several

others until I finished the

painting a week and a half later.

With an ammonia preservate,

paints remain usable for two

months or more in these

palettes.

9. Next I transferred the line of

the hill down onto my final

painting surface - which is

tempered hardboard painted

with 3 layers of gesso. The

gesso was rolled on with a

sponge paint roller and then

sanded. I also decided which

size I liked best for the

mountains in the background

and transferred that down using

graphite transfer paper.

10. The first thing I painted was

the sky. Then I had black and

white on the painting which

gave me good reference for the

values (lights and darks) for the

rest of the painting. Next I

started painting the rocks of the

mountain. I decided to move the

hill down about half an inch

which is why you see 2 lines

there in this picture.

11. I moved from my table to

my easel to paint the snow.

Working at the easel allowed

me to stand back and get a

broader perspective. I painted

with my pre-mixed paints

shown above using my color

study as reference. I used a

long handled bristle brush and

stood back while I painted.

Later I decided that the hill

looked too much like a round

ball so I straightened out the

contour a little.

12. I decided which size of

skeleton to use and where

exactly I wanted to place it. I

taped the photo copy down on

the right, put the graphite

transfer paper underneath the

photo copy and traced over the

lines with a hard (5H) pencil. I

was back at the table for this

step.

I find this brand of transfer

paper works very well. It is

produced by Loew-Cornell. It

creates dark lines that erase

easily. It also comes in white

which is useful when

transferring a drawing to a dark

surface.

13. I began painting the

skeleton. I was basically just

drawing with black paint while

imagining a light coming from

the lower right.

14. I continued painting the

skeleton, adding the lights and

the red wreath and ribbons. I

taped my drawing to the

painting as reference for the

flowers.

15. I taped tracing paper over

the painting to work on the ski

tracks. I used ski photos as

reference for the tracks

including Howie Garber's "Wish

You Were Here" - a beautiful

card seen to the left which

shows ski tracks coming down

Cardiac Bowl in the Wasatch

Mountains. 16. I began painting

the ski track and the cloud of

snow thrown up by the skis.

Normally I would have painted

the cloud of snow first and then

painted the skeleton on top of it

but I wasn't sure of the direction

and shape of the cloud before I

the skeleton was drawn.

Afterwards I painted in the trees

and more detail on the

mountain and rocks.

16. I began painting the ski

track and the cloud of snow

thrown up by the skis. Normally

I would have painted the cloud

of snow first and then painted

the skeleton on top of it but I

wasn't sure of the direction and

shape of the cloud before I the

skeleton was drawn. Afterwards

I painted in the trees and more

detail on the mountain and

rocks.

17. I wasn't happy with the ski

tracks; they didn't seem to be at

the correct angle to fit with the

contour of the hill. I

contemplated this and re-drew

them. The old drawing is on the

left; the new drawing is on the

right.

Then I completely painted out

the old tracks (left), transfered

down the new drawing, and

then painted the new tracks with

improved geometry (right).

Without having the pre-mixed

paints it would have been

almost impossible to paint out

the old tracks because of the

difficulty of matching the colors

because acrylics dry darker and

are a slightly different color than

when they are wet.

With pre-mixed paints it was much easier. Note: The color difference in the photos above is

due to different lighting conditions under which they were taken. The colors were actually

the same in the painting, only the shape of the tracks were changed.

18. I returned to the cloud of

snow to add more detail. Before

I began I painted over the

skeleton and his poles with

masking fluid so that I could

paint the cloud freely without

having to worry about losing

any of my prior work on the

skeleton. The masking fluid

goes on like paint and then

dries quickly. Although I rarely

use masking fluid this particular

paintings presented its own

special technical challenges.

19. I decided I wanted to paint

the shadow of the skeleton on

the cloud more carefully and I

wasn't sure how it would look

so I set up this skeleton in my

studio with a spotlight to see the

shadows.

20. From this set-up I did a

quick pencil sketch and used it

for reference to finish painting

the shadows on the snow

cloud.

21. Here I'm peeling off the

masking fluid. It comes off more

easily than rubber cement.

However, it leaves some

jagged edges that had to be

cleaned up a little with paint

and brush. To the left you can

faintly see one of the ski poles

before the masking fluid has

been removed.

22. I worked some more on the

tracks adjusting the values

while continuing to use various

photos for reference.

23. The only thing that bothered

me in the original drawing was

the lower of the two ribbons. I

decided it didn't work any better

in the painting and to re-do it. I

redrew it on paper, painted it out

on the painting, transfered the

drawing down, and re-painted it.

I changed the lighting on both of

the ribbons as well. Again, it

was only because I had pre-

mixed paints that I was able to

make this change easily.

24. After this I did minor touch-

ups on the whole painting,

signed it, varnished it with an air

gun, and voila! "After Hours"

was finished. : )

 

The first step of the painting is to

transfer the drawing to my hardboard

painting surface with carbon paper

 

You can see in the tree trunk of this stage

that I have begun to work "light out of dark"

- that is; painting with light opaque paint

over the darker areas

 

Gradually, I build up layers of paint. I

continue to refine the shapes as I work

 

In this stage, I've continued to work light out

of dark in the foilage. This gives the shapes

much more volume

 

I work in acrylic. I apply the first layers of paint

transparently so I can still see the drawing. For

more about materials click here

 

I smooth out rough areas and conversely

add texture where I want it -e.g. grass, fur. I

decided a crescent moon would look better

so I repainted the moon and sky. Finished!